At Home Film Developing Equipment List
By Tehanie Lifu
The beauty of the internet is that you can learn just about anything on your own. For avid DIY enthusiasts, diving into online tutorials and tracking down equipment lists can be both exciting and frustrating. When I decided to start developing film at home, the search for useful resources leaned heavily more towards the frustrating side. I couldn’t find a single, comprehensive, and detailed guide that met my needs. In the end, after endless hours of YouTube, I now I have a functional home developing studio to show for it.
Don’t get me wrong, there are some excellent beginner kits out there. However, I struggled to find companies that shipped these convenient, all-in-one kits to Portugal. So, if you're based in Portugal or Spain, or you're just looking to set up your own home developing studio, this guide is for you.
It took me a fair bit of trial and error to figure out exactly what I needed, but after successfully developing over 10 rolls of film at home, I’m ready to share my product recommendations. Please note that I shoot exclusively on 35mm film. While the process should be similar for 120mm, I recommend double-checking the specifics.
Below, you’ll find a complete equipment list with affiliate Amazon links. For more details about each item and why I use it, keep scrolling for an in-depth breakdown.
Equipment List:
1 x CineStill Cs41 - Simplified 2-Bath Colour Powder Kit CineStill Cs41
1 x Adox Adonal Rodinal Black & White - Developer
1 x Adox Adonal Rodinal Black & White - Fixer
1 x Ilford Wetting Agent
1 x Adox Adonal Rodinal Black & White - Developer
1 x Adox Adonal Rodinal Black & White - Fixer
1 x Ilford Wetting Agent
1 x Paterson Tank
1 x Thermometer
2 x Measuring Jugs 1L
3 x Black Chemical Storage Bottles 1L
1 x Measuring Cylinder 100ml
2 x Funnels
1 x Scissors
1 x Film Opener / Bottle Opener
1 x Coat Hanger
1 x Negative Clip / Peg
2 x Old Tea Towels
1 x Thermometer
2 x Measuring Jugs 1L
3 x Black Chemical Storage Bottles 1L
1 x Measuring Cylinder 100ml
2 x Funnels
1 x Scissors
1 x Film Opener / Bottle Opener
1 x Coat Hanger
1 x Negative Clip / Peg
2 x Old Tea Towels
1 x Mirrorless or DSRL Camera
1 x Lens
1 x LED Light & Negative Film Slide
1 x Tripod
Optional:
1 x Lens
1 x LED Light & Negative Film Slide
1 x Tripod
Optional:
Stop Bath Solution
Negative Sleeves
It's good to note that your chemicals are really the only things you will need to re-purchase. Once you set up the rest of your equipment this process becomes quite affordable. In total I spent around €250 to set myself up and I should be able to develop at least 10 rolls of black & white film and 24 rolls of colour.
Negative Sleeves
It's good to note that your chemicals are really the only things you will need to re-purchase. Once you set up the rest of your equipment this process becomes quite affordable. In total I spent around €250 to set myself up and I should be able to develop at least 10 rolls of black & white film and 24 rolls of colour.
Chemicals
For most beginner film developers, the chemical side of things can feel the most intimidating. With so many options on the market, it’s easy to get overwhelmed, especially when trying to figure out what suits your needs. As someone who shoots both colour and black & white, I knew I’d need separate sets of chemicals for each (and no, you can’t use the same chemicals for both).
Black & White Film Chemicals:
You need three things, developer, fixer, and photo flo (aka. wetting agent). You will likely read that you also need a stop bath solution, but after a lot of research I found that many at home developers just used plain old tap water (aka. poor mans stop bath).
You need three things, developer, fixer, and photo flo (aka. wetting agent). You will likely read that you also need a stop bath solution, but after a lot of research I found that many at home developers just used plain old tap water (aka. poor mans stop bath).
Developer
With the developer I purchased, I should get at least 8 - 10 black & white rolls out of the 100ml bottle. The Adox developer is a one-use product, meaning you can not reuse this.
With the developer I purchased, I should get at least 8 - 10 black & white rolls out of the 100ml bottle. The Adox developer is a one-use product, meaning you can not reuse this.
Fixer
The Adox fixer will last me quite some time because unlike the developer it is reusable; simply pour it into a dark chemical bottle and it should last around 4-6 months. With the 500ml bottle you can make around six batches of developer, with each batch developing at least 20 rolls.
The Adox fixer will last me quite some time because unlike the developer it is reusable; simply pour it into a dark chemical bottle and it should last around 4-6 months. With the 500ml bottle you can make around six batches of developer, with each batch developing at least 20 rolls.
Photo Flo
Photo flo or wetting agent is used as the final step of the developing process and ensures that your negatives dry without water marks (it's kind of like a nice soapy bath for your negatives). You only need a tiny amount of this for each processing and it is not reusable. The Ilford one I purchased should be enough for around 16 rolls.
Colour Film Chemicals:
Colour developing at home can be a tad more tricky. Thankfully CineStill has created a simplified 2-bath Cs41 colour powder kit that was easy to use and came with a detailed list of instructions. From this you get a developer and blix solution (bleach + fix). You also need photo flo (aka. wetting agent).
Photo flo or wetting agent is used as the final step of the developing process and ensures that your negatives dry without water marks (it's kind of like a nice soapy bath for your negatives). You only need a tiny amount of this for each processing and it is not reusable. The Ilford one I purchased should be enough for around 16 rolls.
Colour Film Chemicals:
Colour developing at home can be a tad more tricky. Thankfully CineStill has created a simplified 2-bath Cs41 colour powder kit that was easy to use and came with a detailed list of instructions. From this you get a developer and blix solution (bleach + fix). You also need photo flo (aka. wetting agent).
Equipment
You will need other little bits of equipment for heating, mixing, and storing your chemicals.
Paterson Tank
Very important! This is a light proof developing tank that you load your film into and do all the chemical developing in. You might be surprised that the only step that needs to be done in the dark is loading your film into this tank, everything else can be done with full light.
Thermometer
Very important! These chemicals only work at certain temperatures.
Measuring Jugs
These are handy for mixing chemicals. I usually have one for developer and one for fixer / blix solutions.
Black Chemical Storage Bottles
For storing mixed chemicals (I can't find the exact ones I purchased anymore but these are similar). It is best to store chemicals in dark and airtight bottles for optimal shelf life.
Measuring Cylinder
Mainly for measuring black & white chemicals as these require a bit more maths. For example, to develop one roll you need a solution of 1+25, so that's 1 part developer to 25 parts water. My Paterson tank is 300ml, so for this ratio I would need to measure out 12ml of b&w developer and 288ml of water.
Funnels
Not totally necessary but it makes it a lot easier to mix and pour the re-usable chemicals back into the chemical bottles after use.
Scissors
You will need a pair of scissors to cut your film away from the canister before loading it into your Paterson tank.
Film Opener / Bottle Opener
This is to pop open the film canister - I personally use a regular old bottle opener but you can by specific ones that are probably a bit easier.
Paterson Tank
Very important! This is a light proof developing tank that you load your film into and do all the chemical developing in. You might be surprised that the only step that needs to be done in the dark is loading your film into this tank, everything else can be done with full light.
Thermometer
Very important! These chemicals only work at certain temperatures.
Measuring Jugs
These are handy for mixing chemicals. I usually have one for developer and one for fixer / blix solutions.
Black Chemical Storage Bottles
For storing mixed chemicals (I can't find the exact ones I purchased anymore but these are similar). It is best to store chemicals in dark and airtight bottles for optimal shelf life.
Measuring Cylinder
Mainly for measuring black & white chemicals as these require a bit more maths. For example, to develop one roll you need a solution of 1+25, so that's 1 part developer to 25 parts water. My Paterson tank is 300ml, so for this ratio I would need to measure out 12ml of b&w developer and 288ml of water.
Funnels
Not totally necessary but it makes it a lot easier to mix and pour the re-usable chemicals back into the chemical bottles after use.
Scissors
You will need a pair of scissors to cut your film away from the canister before loading it into your Paterson tank.
Film Opener / Bottle Opener
This is to pop open the film canister - I personally use a regular old bottle opener but you can by specific ones that are probably a bit easier.
Coat Hangers
This is for hanging up your film to dry after developing. My method is very bootleg; I use pegs and a piece tape to hang them up.
Negative Clip / Peg
These you will have lying around your house and I just find it good to have a few on hand when developing. Sometimes the Paterson tank can leak chemicals so they come in handy for that, as well as drying off all the equipment after use.
This is for hanging up your film to dry after developing. My method is very bootleg; I use pegs and a piece tape to hang them up.
Negative Clip / Peg
These you will have lying around your house and I just find it good to have a few on hand when developing. Sometimes the Paterson tank can leak chemicals so they come in handy for that, as well as drying off all the equipment after use.
Scanning
Scanning is an incredibly important element of developing at home. In my trial and error phase, I found it to be the most frustrating part. There are many ways you can scan your negatives at home, I opted for DSLR scanning since I already have a Sony A7R III. For this process you need a few things:
Mirrorless or DSLR Camera
I have a Sony A7R III but any mirrorless or DSLR will do.
Macro Lens
I used my Sigma Standard Zoom 24-70mm F2.8. If you have a proper macro lens that would be better because you really want to get as close to the negatives as possible while maintaining a high resolution.
LED Light & Negative Film Slide
You need to have a bright LED light behind the negatives for scanning, as well as something to hold the negatives above the light source. Without this there can be light flares or extra noise added to the negatives during the scanning process. This kit was perfect for a beginner. It's a little finicky but it does the job and for a great price.
Tripod
Any will do, I use this Amazon one as it was the most affordable with the best reviews.
I have a Sony A7R III but any mirrorless or DSLR will do.
Macro Lens
I used my Sigma Standard Zoom 24-70mm F2.8. If you have a proper macro lens that would be better because you really want to get as close to the negatives as possible while maintaining a high resolution.
LED Light & Negative Film Slide
You need to have a bright LED light behind the negatives for scanning, as well as something to hold the negatives above the light source. Without this there can be light flares or extra noise added to the negatives during the scanning process. This kit was perfect for a beginner. It's a little finicky but it does the job and for a great price.
Tripod
Any will do, I use this Amazon one as it was the most affordable with the best reviews.
Storage
Negative Sleeves
Now that you've developed and scanned all of your images, what do you do with the negatives? I've been using plastic negative sleeves and they are a great way to ensure your negatives don't get dusty or damaged over time.
_________
Now that you've developed and scanned all of your images, what do you do with the negatives? I've been using plastic negative sleeves and they are a great way to ensure your negatives don't get dusty or damaged over time.
_________
And that's it! It seems like a lot but having it all broken down like this makes it a lot easier to navigate. Happy at home developing!
